40 000.
This is the number of times you will cleanse your face in your lifetime, so you might as well do it properly. And yet… it’s often the step that is rushed the most. Result: dull skin, enlarged pores, serums that don’t penetrate. Not because of the active ingredients, but because of the basics.
Here’s what science says. And what you can do starting tonight.
1. Why cleansing really changes the skin
In just one day, your skin accumulates:
🔬 An invisible biological film: sebum produced 24/7, about 400 ml of sweat every day, and more than 30,000 dead cells/cm² eliminated.
🏙️ Pollution particles: 20 times smaller than a pore.
☀️ Residues of film-forming UV filters: hydrophobic, designed to resist water… therefore impossible to remove with water alone.
💄 Pigments, polymers, silicones from makeup—a stubborn cocktail that settles on the skin’s surface.
Imagine watering a concrete floor. That’s exactly what happens when you apply serum on uncleaned skin. The product exists, but it doesn’t penetrate..
Why is cleansing essential? 5 scientific reasons
Reason 1 — Optimize the penetration of active ingredients
Sebum, pollution, and makeup form an invisible shield on the skin. In front of the natural stratum corneum, active ingredients must also penetrate this physical and biological barrier. An almost impossible mission. A suitable cleanser unlocks access to the epidermis and optimizes the penetration of active ingredients contained in serums or creams.
Reason 2 — Remove the inevitable residues during summer
In summer, sunscreen is in every suitcase. Essential, it nevertheless leaves residues of lipid filters formulated to resist water. An SPF50 sunscreen can contain up to 20 to 30% UV filters in its formula, along with oils, emollients, film-forming polymers, and water resistance agents. It is precisely this lipid and film-forming phase that explains why water alone is not enough: an oily texture or a suitable surfactant is needed to remove it effectively.
Under the effect of heat, sebum production also increases. These residues do not wash away with water. An oil or balm is needed as the first step, followed if necessary by a water-based cleanser.
Reason 3 — Because water alone is not enough
Rinsing with tap water is not cleaning. It’s like putting a dirty pan under water thinking it’s clean. Makeup, sebum, sunscreens—these molecules remain deeply anchored in pores without the right surfactant. Even hydrophilic impurities are removed more effectively with a cleanser: +35% pollutant particles removed* with the Flash Radiance Foam.
Reason 4 — Protect your skin from oxidative stress
Pollution is everywhere. Even indoors: according to a national study, more than 170 pollutants are found in indoor air, and homes can be 2 to 5 times more polluted than outside.
On the front line: the skin and its 2 m². If it’s not protected, it saturates. Pollutant particles induce oxidative stress that accelerates aging, dulls the complexion, and promotes imperfections. Novexpert cleansers remove 99% of pollutant particles present on the skin.
Reason 5 — Limit the appearance of imperfections
A clogged pore is a pore that can no longer breathe. Some pollution particles are 20 times smaller than pores, they easily enter, form an anaerobic plug, and create the ideal environment for C. acnes.
In summer, it’s a double whammy: the skin thickens under UV exposure and particles accumulate. Result: pimples appear 3 to 4 weeks after exposure, the rebound effect often mistakenly attributed to heat or stress.
On vacation, bring your cleanser to keep the good habit every evening. At Novexpert, we have developed most of our cleansers in travel sizes to make transport even easier.
2. Which cleanser for my skin?
There is no universal cleanser. The right texture depends on your skin, your environment, and ultimately what deposits on your skin every day.
The simple rule: chemical affinity
Oils dissolve oily substances (sebum, SPF, makeup). Water-based formulas remove aqueous substances (sweat, water-soluble pollution, skincare residues). This simple rule helps you easily understand the world of cleansers.
Oily or combination skin:
Gel or foam is your ally. Lightness, freshness, no lipid overload.
Clear Skin Foaming Gel (Zinc Trio) — For: normal to oily skin, imperfections, excess sebum | Triple action: antibacterial + anti-inflammatory + antioxidant. → 100% skin immediately purified*
Dry or mature skin:
Oil or balm nourishes and cleanses effectively. It dissolves oily residues without weakening the barrier.
Makeup Removing Oil with 5 Omegas — For: all skin types, makeup removal and first step of double cleansing | 5 vegetable oils. Skin lacking nutrition or comfort. → 100% skin softer and nourished*
Pro-Retinol Makeup Removing Balm — For: all skin types, wrinkles and fine lines, anti-aging routine | Pro-Retinol acts from the cleansing step — even before serum. → 95% skin softer and effectively makeup-free*
Sensitive or hyperreactive skin:
Reactive skin has a weakened barrier; it needs support and gentle cleansing.
Hydro-Biotic Milky Cleanser (Magnesium) — For: all skin types, sensitive skin, redness | Magnesium + prebiotics = cleans AND restores the microbiome. Safe for pregnant women. → 96% skin smoothed and softer*
Dehydrated skin or quick routine:
Micellar Water with Hyaluronic Acid — For: all skin types, first wrinkles, dehydrated skin | Removes makeup without disrupting. HA maintains hydration levels during cleansing. → 96% skin hydrated and softer*
Dull complexion, desire for radiance:
Flash Radiance Cleansing Foam (Vitamin C) — For: normal to oily skin, uneven complexion, first wrinkles | +35% pollutant particles removed vs. water alone*. → In 20 seconds: smooth skin and radiant complexion*
For every skin, a suitable Novexpert cleanser.
But all these products comply with Novexpert’s formulation charter:
· Active ingredients from the very first step — vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, pro-retinol, zinc... Cleansing is not a neutral step; it is already a treatment.
· 100% natural care , to cleanse the skin without disrupting it.
· A strict blacklist of surfactants — all sulfate and betaine derivatives are excluded. A cleanser that strips is not a good cleanser.
· Effectiveness proven by clinical studies and usage tests : purification, makeup removal, comfort, radiance, or hydration depending on the product.
· A pH close to that of the skin : to limit tightness sensations and maintain the proper functioning of the skin ecosystem.
· Expert textures tailored to every need : oil, balm, milk, foam, jelly, or micellar water… Novexpert considers all skin types, from quick cleansing to double cleansing, from sensitive skin to oily skin.
3. The 5 mistakes that ruin your routine
Error #1 — Water that is too hot
✗ What happens: Heat solubilizes intercorneocyte lipids — those that form your skin barrier. Repeatedly: increasingly sensitive, increasingly reactive skin.
✓ Instead: Lukewarm to cold water. No need for heat to cleanse; surfactant effectiveness does not depend on water temperature.
Mistake #2 — Rubbing instead of massaging
✗ What happens: Mechanical friction does not improve cleansing. On the contrary, if too intense, it can stimulate sebum production in combination/oily skin.
✓ Instead: 60 seconds of gentle circular massage. Surfactants need time to surround impurities and solubilize them.
Mistake #3 — Using a cleanser with harsh surfactants
✗ What happens: A cleanser that strips is not more effective — it is just destructive to the skin barrier. The damaged hydro-lipid film reacts by producing more sebum or dehydrating.
✓ Instead: Check the INCI: avoid sulfate derivatives (SLS, SLES) and betaines. Over 40,000 cleansings in a lifetime, the choice of surfactant is a long-term skin health decision.
Mistake #4 — Rinsing too quickly or poorly
✗ What happens: Contact time is a formulation parameter. A cleanser left on for 10 seconds hasn’t had time to work.
✓ Instead: Minimum 30 to 60 seconds of contact, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
Mistake #5 — Shared bath towel
✗ What happens: A damp towel = a bacterial incubator. A real problem, especially for acne-prone skin.
✓ Instead: Use a face towel washed at 60°C every week. Pat dry, never rub.
Mistake #6 — Stop the routine after rinsing
✗ What happens: Tap water is often hard (pH 7 to 8). It disrupts the skin’s natural acidity (pH 4.5–5.5). Result: tight skin, reduced receptivity to active ingredients.
✓ Instead: Spray a mist immediately after rinsing to restore skin balance and prepare for subsequent treatments. → Discover all Novexpert mists
4. Sensitive skin: cleanse without irritation
Sensitive skin is not fragile by nature. It is often weakened by unsuitable products.
To avoid
✗ Surfactants ending in "sulfate" that can weaken the skin barrier. Beware if they are among the first 5 ingredients on the INCI list, as this means they are in high concentration.
✗ Denatured alcohol (Alcohol Denat.): dehydrating, pro-inflammatory
✗ Betaine: amphoteric surfactants often described as mild, but irritating on reactive skin at high concentrations
✗ Water too hot: doubly problematic on reactive skin — see mistake #1
To prioritize
✓ Gentle surfactants: capryl glucoside, alkyl glucosides, succinates
✓ pH formulated between 4.5 and 5.5 — close to the skin’s physiological pH
✓ Prebiotics or postbiotics: support microbiome restoration
✓ Magnesium: soothing active, reduces skin hyperreactivity
5. Double cleansing: why? For whom & how?
Double cleansing is very popular today, sometimes overhyped by certain brands, but its foundations are scientific.
A lipid cleanser first, then an aqueous treatment.
First step (oil or balm): dissolves lipid residues — makeup, SPF, sebum. By affinity, not by friction.
Second step (gel, foam, milk, or micellar water): removes hydrophilic residues — sweat, pollution, residues from the first step itself.
Performed with cleansers free of harsh surfactants, this combination cleans thoroughly without disrupting balance.
When it’s really useful:
→ You wear a full-coverage foundation or long-lasting SPF50 → double cleansing is essential in the evening
→ Oily skin with high sebum production → more thorough cleansing without irritation
→ After a day in the city (pollution, mask) → the first lipid step captures PM
When one step is enough:
→ In the morning → only overnight sebum, no external impurities. A mist + wipe or a milk cleanser is enough for some skin types.
→ Bare skin, no SPF, indoor day → a single gentle cleanser does the job
Double cleansing comes from Asia (Japan, Korea), where it developed alongside the culture of heavy makeup and ultra-resistant SPFs. It is originally a logical response to a high cosmetic load.
In summary: your cleansing checklist
✅ In the evening, always. In the morning, depending on your skin — mist + wipe possible for non-oily skin.
✅ Lipid textures (oil, balm) for dry, mature skin, heavy with makeup or SPF.
✅ Watery textures (gel, foam) for oily and combination skin.
✅ 30 to 60 seconds of massage. No rubbing. No hot water.
✅ Double cleanse if wearing heavy makeup or water-resistant SPF.
✅ Rinse thoroughly, then mist immediately after to restore skin pH.
✅ Dedicated towel, washed at 60°C weekly. Pat dry, do not rub.
✅ For sensitive skin: avoid sulfates, betaines, and denatured alcohol in the first 5 ingredients.
✅ 40,000 cleansings in a lifetime: choosing a 100% natural cleanser with mild surfactants and biodegradable ingredients is not a detail — it’s a skin investment for your skin’s long-term health.
Legal notices — clinical studies
* +35% pollutant particles removed with Flash Radiance Foam: Clinical study — Image analysis (number of dark pixels detected before and after cleansing) — Single product application.
* In 20 seconds: smoother skin & radiant complexion — Flash Radiance Foam: Clinical study — Usage test — 19 volunteers — % satisfaction — Result after 14 days of use — 1 application per day.
* 95% softer and effectively makeup-removed skin — Pro-Retinol Cleansing Balm: Clinical study — Usage test — 20 volunteers — % satisfaction — 28 days of use — 1 application per day in the evening.
* 100% immediately purified skin — Clear Skin Foaming Gel: Clinical study — Usage test — 20 volunteers — % satisfaction — Result after 14 days of use — 2 applications per day.
* 96% smoother and softer skin — Hydro-Biotic Milky Cleanser: Clinical study — Usage test — 25 consumers — % satisfaction — 28 days of use.
* 96% hydrated & softer skin — Micellar Water with Hyaluronic Acid: Clinical study — Usage test — 25 consumers — % satisfaction — 28 days of use.
* 100% softer and nourished skin — Cleansing Oil with 5 Omegas: Clinical study — Usage test — 39 volunteers — % satisfaction at first use and after 28 days of use — Use morning and/or evening.
* Elimination of 99% of pollutant particles: Novexpert internal data.
