Salicylic acid is recognized in cosmetics for its anti-imperfection actions.
So we decided NOT to use it. Unbelievable? Not really.
Learn to read between the lines and discover the two sides of salicylic acid.
We bet that by the end, you'll share our opinion?
Step behind the scenes of the fame of salicylic acid.
Established as the star molecule of anti-imperfection ranges, we do not deny that salicylic acid partly deserves its dazzling fame.
Its primary role: to clean the epidermis (the first layer of skin) by removing the outermost cells to unclog pores and stimulate cell renewal.
The second role for which salicylic acid deserves recognition is its bacteria-destroying power, including those that worsen acne. Let's be honest, salicylic acid is a good antimicrobial.
Where can you find salicylic acid at Novexpert?
In... no range, no product. Don’t waste your time searching every corner of our site; we have chosen to blacklist it, meaning it’s on our famous dreaded blacklist of cosmetic actives. A long list of over 1600 ingredients that we will NEVER use, no matter how powerful or "trendy" they are.
You might think this is completely illogical given what you just read. But actually, not so much, because the story isn’t over. So far, you’ve only scratched the surface of the complexity of salicylic acid.
Read on and you’ll never look for salicylic acid again.
You’ll quickly understand our position and probably share it very soon.
In 2019, the European cosmetic regulation (no less) classified it as a "CMR 2 substance," meaning "suspected of having harmful effects on reproduction," according to the law’s own wording. A grim distinction. And it’s not over...
For the past 4 years, salicylic acid has been under review to be included in the feared but unfortunately not yet closed group of endocrine disruptors. These molecules of various natures disrupt our hormonal system, sometimes even in very small amounts (the dose effect is outdated), and combine in our bodies only for the worse (like a bad cocktail). To date, its safety is still under discussion, but for Novexpert, as a precautionary principle, salicylic acid is presumed guilty.
We plead in favor of your health.
Stop salicylic acid: pregnant women and children first
It should also be noted that this active ingredient is already banned in some cosmetics intended for "vulnerable" groups. Fortunately, given the data presented. This is especially true for products intended for children under 3 years old. For pregnant and breastfeeding women, it is STRONGLY discouraged, but... The hormonal system of these women, during these beautiful yet turbulent times, does not need another disruptor. We therefore STRONGLY advise you to stay away from it if you are expecting a baby or if one has recently joined your life.
For the rest of the population, know that it is simply (for now) limited. So activate your radar even more to spot it. Sometimes it won’t be so hard because new products—especially anti-acne ones—put it front and center, a risky marketing strategy given the disputes it has with authorities.
We almost fell to the dark side too…
We won’t hide it from you, we also considered using it in our ranges. We even formulated some products. That was several years ago, when the first publications about the potential endocrine-disrupting effect of salicylic acid appeared, along with doubts about its safety. You know our "all the way" approach (sometimes a bit extreme), our commitment to universal cosmetics (including for pregnant women), and our blind (but informed) trust in scientific facts, so you’ve probably already guessed the rest of the story. We stopped everything.
To be honest, this decision was also a bit selfish because we wanted to sleep peacefully knowing we were taking no risks with your future health.
Fighting pimples without salicylic acid is possible (and preferable!)
With that clarified, you might wonder if skin with imperfections is doomed to stay that way if it doesn’t want to gamble with its health. If you’re on our site, you know the answer: of course not.
To play on salicylic acid’s turf, here are some of our secrets you can find in the Trio-Zinc range:
Antimicrobial actives (= destroy bad bacteria including C.acnes): Totarol, a.laurique, the postbiotic Lactobacillus…
Keratolytic actives (that big word again meaning purify pores and help cell renewal): gluconolactone, lactic acid
And that’s not all… with the Trio-Zinc active, the formulas act on the CAUSES of imperfections for a lasting effect. An example? The zinc trio reduces the amount of IGF-1, a literally pro-acne growth factor that is stimulated when your diet is rich in sugars and/or milk.
And, between us, salicylic acid doesn’t do that.
Pioneers, committed, sometimes a bit rebellious, we have always imposed the "precautionary principle" in the face of chemical pollution of the body and its consequences. You’ve understood, salicylic acid will not be the exception that proves the rule.
References
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:342:0059:0209:fr:PDF
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/FR/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32019R1966&from=FR#:~:text=(1)%20Le%20r%C3%A8glement%20(CE,de%20l'Agence%20europ%C3%A9enne%20des
https://health.ec.europa.eu/scientific-committees/scientific-committee-consumer-safety-sccs_en
